The Laksa Craze

Taken from Anthony Bourdain's Twitter

Yesssssss.... #laksa #Kuching                      --Bourdain, 2015 

Right, Bourdain came to Kuching few days ago and had laksa at Choon Hui (yes, that famous and slightly overrated laksa place next to Grand Continental Hotel).  He twitted this photo and it immediately went viral, at least among my social media circle. Not sure if it's because our city day is approaching, I kept seeing uplifting news about Kuching these two weeks. *homesick* Anyway, back to the topic, I was really hyped to see that caption, not to mention how excited my dad got when I showed him this. As much as a authentic food enthusiast my father is, he'd really go by all means to educate people that it is laksa KUCHING, NOT laksa SARAWAK. I bet he must be a little sad that even a foreigner can acknowledge this but why is our people keep advertising it as laksa SARAWAK?

Okay, before this, I've always wondered why is my dad so particular with the name. See, it is always advertised as laksa Sarawak to differentiate itself from other laksas in Malaysia. Our own Sarawak Tourism Board also named it laksa Sarawak, everyone calls it laksa Sarawak. Fine, except the locals, we simply call it laksa. So, I think what Bourdain really meant was that he's having laksa in Kuching, hence #laksa #Kuching. Then again, really pissed me off is when certain facebook comments correcting him that it is laska SARAWAK not KUCHING. Hey, let's get the fact straight, this version of laksa originated from KUCHING, so what's the wrong of calling it laksa KUCHING? I think I finally got why my dad is so particular with the nomenclature. Try going to other parts of Sarawak and order a bowl of laksa, some would even come with condiments like taupok and fishballs or fish cake. That's not the authentic KUCHING laksa, so go ahead and call it laksa SARAWAK. Authentic Laksa Kuching should comprise of bean sprout, chicken, omelette, prawns, Chinese celery/ coriander, belacan (not sambal chilli), and Calamansi lime.

I know some would argue that it still come from the state of Sarawak, so are laksa Penang from  the state of Penang, and laksa Johor from the state of Johor. Never would one say laksa Georgetown or Laksa JB right? WRONG! Sarawak is a country, not a state. If you understand what I mean #S4S What if I call Penang laksa Malaya Laksa? Then you'll start wondering what laksa is it. Is it Nyonya laksa, or assam laksa, or curry laksa? See, when things are generalised they lose their identity. That is why it is called Katong laksa not Singapore laksa. My point here is, I don't find the wrong in calling Kuching laksa Sarawak laksa, 'cause Kuching is still part of Sarawak. But I think by doing so, our laksa will really lose our identity. 

This is already happening that it worries me. I have came across few laksa stalls in Kuching started adding 'non-authentic' condiments like tau pok and fish cake while leaving out the omelette.

first laksa I had during my last trip back to Kuching.. see the taupok and no omelette *smh* 

Discussion regarding the pic: grumpy cats disapprove laksa with taupok

See, that's the consequence of not emphasising regional characteristics. Sooner or later we got hybrid of assam laksa and our laksa. That, to me, is not some cultural assimilation shit, that's bulls***. Cultural assimilation doesn't come this way, it should be marrying the good of two or more culture and give birth to a child which inherit the best of the best. Simply by mixing two elements is just disrespectful to all cultures involved. I know some who encourage this kind of diversity, but really, I hope our roots can be retained. Like the discussion above, I can see many fellow Kuchingites wants an authentic bowl of laksa, while some 'outsiders' or younger generations have already lose track of what is the real laksa. If this is what you want to achieve, go ahead and call laksa Kuching, laksa Sarawak. Who am I to correct this. But I hope I am not one to witness the downfall of our 'heritage'. 

Don't mess with my laksa and kolo mee! #Kuchingiteforlife

Peace, 

Dong